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Kart gearing

Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 3:56 pm
by R.Brown
Getting a kart ready to go this season, and wondered what a good starting point for gearing is?

thanks!
Ryan

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 4:22 pm
by De Tomaso
Hi, I am out at the Track Tomorrow. If you there I can help you and there are lots of 4 Stroke Guys out as well.
We can help you to find the right Gear.

Markus #88

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 4:58 pm
by R.Brown
Thanks! I will be there with two of my boys for the morning junior rookie clinic. Just to be clear, my kart will not be ready to race for a few weeks. Have more questions too, like how I register my transponder, etc.. Picking away at the kart prep as time allows, lol.

Cheers,
Ryan

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 6:15 pm
by John Kwong
Hi,

Senior Briggs gearing:

Track direction: CCW 16/60 = 3.75:1

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 6:59 pm
by R.Brown
Thank you

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Sat May 07, 2016 11:40 am
by d4rk5trok3r
I am super green, and have the same question regarding gearing. Also regarding clutch.

I got a little seat time this last thursday, and didn't bounce off the limiter at any point, and fell pretty sluggish in the bottom end out of the corners.

So, gearing, clutch spec / manu, and float.

The float I will ensure is on point. But the other two I am unsure about. It's a used Kart, so I have no clue the type of clutch on it, has two shoes. I have a second clutch, four shoes.

Any advice, suggestions, starting points?

Thanks!

Jason

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Sat May 07, 2016 12:44 pm
by DaveC
Hi Jason ... hard to talk about clutches with limited info.
Regardless, I would focus on getting the gearing correct first and foremost. Being where you are a couple of years ago, until you are much less "green", I would follow whatever advice John offers. It does not sound like you have a clutch issue (which would be slipping, which would cause too many RPMs).

If you have 16/60's (final drive 3.75:1) installed you should be in the ballpark. Based on your observations you may have a taller ratio, which would explain what you are feeling. Initially you may even want a shorter final drive (16/61). Lastly, this kart driving thing is not quite as straightforward as we drivers initially think it might be ... lots of seat time (laps) is required to approach times of the guys that have been doing this for decades (or since they were 8).

See you on Tuesday and Thursday ...

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Sat May 07, 2016 8:59 pm
by John Kwong
Hi Jason,

The 2 shoe clutch sounds like a Noram clutch which is a fine brand of clutch and there are a couple different springs available for adjustment. The four shoe clutch is probably a Hilliard which is also a good brand and also has a good range of adjustment.

I wrote a post on here called LO206 Tips & Tricks viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1453 which should help answer some questions.

The key with Briggs racing is being smooth and carrying speed through the corners. Getting down to competitive lap times requires practice and pushing your personal limits to find the seconds and then tenths of seconds to be competitive. Through practice and trying different tire pressures, chassis settings and driving lines the speed will come. There are lots of us that will pass on whatever information you are looking for so don't be afraid to ask.

John K

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Sat May 21, 2016 1:39 pm
by d4rk5trok3r
IMG_4522.jpg
IMG_4522.jpg (1.4 MiB) Viewed 12451 times
ok, good start.

I have two of the solid drums, a 16t and 15t. and I have one complete set up with the vented drum / three shoe. (I was wrong, was a two shoe, and three shoe)

The solid drums have roller bearing, while the vented seems to be merely slip fitment?

Which of these two is a better unit? There are zero markings on either, they could be Chinese knock offs for all intent.

Re: Kart gearing

Posted: Sat May 21, 2016 7:47 pm
by Mark
The solid cover/2-shoe clutch looks like a MaxTorque. Good clutch, but heavy for racing purposes. It will take a pounding though. if you can get this going with a 16 tooth drum, it would be fine for now.

The one with 3 shoes is a Draggin Skin. It's a competitive clutch but that one looks like it needs some TLC. You tune the engagement speed by changing the springs (they are different colours for different spring rates but those are old and dirty and it's hard to tell what the colour may have been). You will probably want to lightly sand the pads and the drum then clean with brake clean. It's important not to over-lube your chain because if lube gets into the clutch it will quickly glaze the pads. It would appear that it's a 15 tooth drive on that as well; you would want a 16 tooth for our track.

I would suggest that you get someone to have a look at it before you invest anything into it. It may make more sense to get one of the Hilliard Flame clutches which is what most of us run. IF your clutch can be cleaned up then roll with that for a while until you get some laps under your belt.